Your First Dress
Your first dress, start to finish
Most first dresses go wrong in the planning, not the sewing. Do these steps in this order and it'll go fine.
1. Pick a forgiving pattern
Choose a shape with few fitted parts: an elastic-waist dress, a shift, a wrap dress or a simple slip. Skip zippers, collars and set-in sleeves for the first one. See patterns for what to look for.
2. Measure yourself, then pick the size
Pattern sizes don't match store sizes, so ignore the size you usually buy. Measure bust, waist and hips with a soft tape and use the pattern's own chart. If you fall between sizes, go by the bust for fitted tops and by the hips for fitted skirts.
3. Buy the fabric the pattern asks for
The pattern envelope lists suitable fabrics and how much to buy. For a first dress, a stable woven like cotton lawn, poplin or linen is easiest. Buy a little extra in case you cut something wrong. More in fabric.
4. Wash it before you cut
Most natural fabrics shrink. Wash and dry the fabric the way you'll wash the dress, then press it flat.
5. Make a quick practice version
Sewers call this a muslin or toile: the main pieces sewn up fast in cheap fabric, just to check fit. It feels like a detour, but it's the single biggest difference between a dress you wear and one you don't.
6. Cut carefully
Line pieces up with the grain (the arrow on the pattern runs parallel to the fabric's edge). Pin or weight the pattern, trace with chalk, and cut with sharp fabric scissors.
7. Sew in the pattern's order
Follow the instructions step by step and press each seam as you go. Pressing is half of what makes homemade look professional.
8. Finish the inside and hem it
Finish raw edges with a zigzag stitch or pinking shears so they don't fray. Try the dress on with the shoes you'll wear before you mark the hem.
How long it takes
| Step | First time |
|---|---|
| Measuring and picking a size | 30 minutes |
| Practice version | 2 to 3 hours |
| Cutting | 1 hour |
| Sewing and finishing | 4 to 8 hours |
Spread it over a few evenings. Sewing tired is when the seam ripper comes out.
What you'll need
- A basic machine. See picking a sewing machine, or start with a beginner sewing machine.
- A pattern: beginner dress patterns
- The small kit: fabric scissors, pins, chalk and a soft tape. See tools.